RacingOrder.com – Washington Based Motorcycle Racing

If you’re a racer, the 415 sprockets + chain is the way to go if you want to reduce rotating mass. If you’re a street rider, it would likely be more practical to go with a standard 520 setup. Just my two cents.

I purchased 415 sprockets from Aftermarket Cycles and separately ordered 2 DID 415 ER chains The chains come in 120 links and you need 134 so you need 2 chains OR order the kit. This setup is replacing my Pit Bull sprockets + DID 520 EVR3 setup. While the weight comparison you see is decent, if you switched from stock sprockets + chain to the 415 setup you’d drop a whole lot of weight.

Old Pit Bull sprockets + EVR3 setup:
Pit Bull front sprocket (14T): 5.4oz
Pit Bull rear sprocket (46T): 11.7oz
DID 520 EVR3 chain (108L): 3lb 10.9oz
TOTAL: 4lb 12oz

New 415 Custom sprockets + DID 415 setup:
Custom front sprocket (18T): 5.1oz
Custom sprocket (57T): 13.2oz
DID 415 chain (134L): 1lb 15.7oz
TOTAL: 3lb 2oz

DIFFERENCE: -1lb 10oz
NOTE: Keep in mind the stock chain + sprockets are much heavier than Pit Bull + EVR3 chain. Weight of master link on EVR3 chain not calculated, but would be minor.

If you want to purchase the 415 sprocket setup, you can puchase it here with (or without) the Tsubaki chain. Actual chain length is 134, so if you don’t order the kit with a Tsubaki you’ll be ordering 2 DID 120 link chains unless you can find someone who can cut one to 134 links.

415 Tsubaki SHT Hi-Performance Racing Chain: 2lb 9.1oz

Don’t take my word for it, here are photos!

My previous Pit Bull + DID 520 EVR3 race setup:

My new custom sprockets + DID 415 race setup:

The Tsubaki 415 shown below comes with kit & has a higher tensile strength vs DID:

Chain comparison: 520 EVR3 vs 415 Tsubaki vs 415 DID

UPDATE: I purchased Flexi Glass I couldn’t be happier. Not only did it fit well, but it’s made to last! I highly suggest giving them a call (1-604-644-9395) for 2008-2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R race bodywork!

I’ve heard the Hotbodies bodywork has issues with the primer flaking off and spider cracks once painted, along with issues when drilling through the tabs. While I haven’t experienced this myself, as the Hotbodies bodywork is still in the box, it came from fellow racers who I believe know what they’re talking about. Needlessly to say, I was already leery of Hotbodies bodywork since I’ve heard negative feedback on their ability to stand up to a crash compared to Sharkskinz, Armour Bodies or Flexi-Glass.

I’ve decided I’ll either return or re-sell the bodywork and pickup another set from one of the three mentioned above. I’ve been on the losing end of running shitty tires, and I want to have confidence in the bodywork I run can withstand ground time.

Dyno results of TYGA Aluminum Race System with Stock jetting vs. Factory Pro jet kit:

Video of TYGA Aluminum Race System + Factory Pro Jet kit Dyno run:

http://www.aftermarketcycles.com/tyga-performance-full-race-exhaust-aluminum-ninja-250.html

Get 8% off with Coupon Code: racingorder

2008 Ninja 250R Dyno: TYGA Round Aluminum Race Exhaust System vs. Stock Exhaust

I’m a private party and this is my review of the TYGA Round Aluminum Race System. I am not a dealer, nor do I work for TYGA, but I’m a street rider and club racer. I’m reviewing this because I found little to no information regarding this system and I wanted to share my findings with others who found themselves in the same predicament as me (how can I pay less and not sacrifice performance!?!?). I scoured the internet but found no proof this system would give me any performance gains. I knew TYGA was a reputable manufacturer of quality products so I took a leap of faith and boy did it pay off!

Ninja 250R Dyno results are for the following runs:
Black: Stock Exhaust (no modifications whatsoever)
Blue: Stock Exhaust (snorkel removed)
Red: TYGA Round Aluminum Race System (snorkel removed)
Note: Carbs were not jetted. Fuel mixture screws were not adjusted.

HP Gains:
1) Remove snorkel (+1.5HP) == 28.1HP!
2) Install TYGA Round Aluminum Race System (+4.2HP) == 32.3HP!
Total: +5.7HP (+4.2HP from TYGA exhaust!)

Weight Comparison (lbs):
Stock | Header: 4.1 | Can: 10.5**| Total: 14.6 lbs
TYGA | Header: 3.4*| Can: 2.6**| Total: 6 lbs
Weight reduction: 8.6 lbs!

** does not include mounting clamp or bolt
* includes all hardware – ie: springs, bung plug, manifolds

http://www.aftermarketcycles.com/tyga-performance-full-race-exhaust-aluminum-ninja-250.html

Get 8% off with Coupon Code: racingorder

What does it sound like?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tUeTh26uP8

Want to see higher resolution photos? See the 3rd post down posted by Tyga USA:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=50337&highlight=tyga+exhaust

Stock exhaust on dyno:

TYGA Round Aluminum Race Exhaust:

TYGA exhaust on dyno:

Want to price other Ninja 250R 08-10 exhaust systems? They’re over $100+ more than TYGA and some don’t seem to perform as well!
Area P, Yoshimura, Leo Vince, Muzzy, Jardine

Did I mention TYGA Exhaust works for FI models? For NON-FI bikes you can plug the O2 sensor hole OR plug a wideband into it!

What’s next?
I’ll be tuning the carbs and do a few more final dyno runs to see if we can’t squeak more HP out of my 250R!

My recommendation:
I highly recommend purchasing an exhaust system from TYGA! High quality, high performance gain and low cost. Pay less but don’t sacrifice quality!

Special thanks to Dave Lanigan @ Speeddealer Motors for the dyno work!

UPDATE: http://www.racingorder.com/2010/12/ninja-250r-hotbodies-race-body-work-quality%e2%80%a6/

Thanks to Mark @ Aftermarket Cycles for a killer deal on the bodywork, they’re a WMRRA Ninja 250 Class sponsor!

If you’re looking for race bodywork or other Ninja 250 parts call Mark directly @ 586-524-7888